Sauce hollandaise is one of the finest things you can make with butter. Butter is a solid animal fat, as is lard. This means you can exchange butter with lard for a meaty variant. And just in case someone is worried about the high satureted fat content of lard: lard has actually less of it than butter (~30% vs. ~50%).
You can buy lard for frying in the supermarket. But this is bland and boring stuff. Just as we want the best possible butter for our hollandaise, we want the best possible lard that actually tastes of something. So we need to make our own. I recently posted a recipe for lard with scratchings that can be used. There is no place for the scratchings in our sauce, though. So it is advisable to cut the pork fat into bigger cubes so they can be removed more easily. If done properly, they will contain almost no fat anymore, and with a bit of salt they are the perfect snack to go with a beer.
When I made the lard for this sauce I turned up the heat at the end of the cooking to get a little bit of browing in the lard. This is more or less the equivalent of brown butter. But be careful not to heat the fat too high or it will begin to smoke.
- 250 g homemade lard, well chilled
- 4 egg yolks
- 100 ml white wine
- 1 small shallot, chopped
- 1 dash of lemon juice