Step 1. Establish your relationship with brioche. The first – and undoubtedly most crucial – step in your quest to make perfect brioche is to fall utterly, completely, soul-consumingly in love with it. Without this emotional foundation, you will not have the necessary motivation to persevere to the end. Chances are this will happen the first time you taste it, and thus you may have already completed this step. If you’ve tasted it and not fallen in love, something has gone wrong; you have probably been exposed to a bad batch, so head out again to a reputable dealer, buy the freshest specimen you can lay your hands on, and take a bite. If you still find yourself lacking in love, it is best to abandon the project now. For everyone else, move on to step 2.