James Norton / Heavy Table
They are really going for it at the new, Erik-Anderson-and-Jamie-Malone-powered Grand Cafe. In terms of technique, ingredients, presentation, and overall ambition, the dishes coming out of the kitchen at the new Grand can stand up to anything in town.
At a recent meal, we encountered hits (plentiful) and near misses (a few), and a couple of dishes so good that we’d have them again tonight, given the chance. One was a bourbon baba that commanded the ravenous attention of everyone at the table. The other was the Chicken Jambonette ($6).