Biscuits and Gravy at the Draft Horse

Biscuits and Gravy at the Draft Horse

James Norton / Heavy Table

Biscuits and gravy is a breakfast standby that goes wrong as often as it come off well. The biscuits get sad and sodden, the gravy goes greasy or overly salty, and the whole dish sits like a bowling ball in your stomach.

Thus the triumph that is the brunch-time Biscuits and Gravy ($10) at Draft Horse at the Food Building. The biscuits themselves are substantial and hold together under the assault of a perfectly seasoned, peppery gravy that is meaty without being leaden or greasy. As is true of so many seemingly simple comfort foods (from burgers to pizza to fried chicken), balance is the key to culinary nirvana.

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