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Like you've heard, Agra (the home of the Taj Mahal) is pretty much an unfortunate craphole. The hotels suck, the touts do spot-on impressions of lampreys, and some restaurants will literally try to poison your food as part of a complicated insurance scam. But all that fades to black when you walk through the gate at the foot of the Taj. There it is, in all its richness, majesty, and symmetry, and
