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After Mumbai, Darjeeling was somewhat of a shocker. It's all Tibet-Lite, and high up, and COLD (in December, at least), and everyone eats thick-skinned dumplings and hot noodle soups instead of dal and iddli. We flew from Mumbai to Bagdogra and then shared a several-hour taxi ride with Punjabis on honeymoon. This was exciting and cool and all, until they bought several bags of snack foods, ate the