Where do I even begin with this post? A little over a week ago we returned from a family vacation we won’t forget any time soon: Twelve days in Hawaii. The trip had been something we’d all been fantasizing about for, well, on my end, maybe my whole life. (Or at least ever since I watched the Brady sisters hula-hooping in Waikiki.) Those of you who follow me on instagram probably already know that we spent most of our time in Kauai, but also took two or three-day trips to both Oahu and the Big Island. You probably could also guess that we ate a ridiculous amount of poke and shave ice, hiked enough miles to short-circuit a FitBit, and spent a good portion of the trip asking ourselves Are we taking this for granted? Please let us not be taking this for granted. Out to dinner one night in Poipu Beach, Kauai — over a poke special, natch — a parched and sunburned Phoebe turned to me and said “This island takes a lot out of you.” At first I laughed because I thought she was referring to how psychotic we are about packing things into our vacation days. (Andy’s nickname, if you recall, is My Drill Sergeant of Leisure, with Abby seamlessly slipping right into the role of second in command.) But then I realized what she meant: The natural beauty there was so overwhelming that it demanded our full reverence: Around every turn, a vista of the bluest Pacific (Exhibit A: Kauai’s famous Kalalau Trail, above); on every breakfast plate, tropical fruit that would make our eyes roll back; volcanic landscapes of shiny hardened lava only miles away from lush jungles so green it hurt. It goes without saying, of course, that we were only too happy to give whatever Hawaii asked of us. Here are our top fifteen -plus (i.e. a not-even-close-to-complete) highlights of the trip.