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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
05/22/2013 01:00 PM
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[Edible Idiom] Haut comme trois pommes

Illustration by MelinArt. This is part of a series on French idiomatic expressions that relate to food. Browse the list of idioms featured so far. This week's expression is, "Haut comme trois pommes." Literally translated as, "high as three apples," it is used to point out that someone -- often a child -- is small or very short. I've seen it translated to "knee-high to a grasshopper," although I'

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
05/14/2013 12:10 PM
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Fresh Garlic, and What To Do With It

Unless you are one of those blessed people with an outdoor space and a vegetable garden and the opportunity to grow your own sprightly things, chances are you only ever see heads of garlic in dried form, their ivory cloves enclosed in a papery husk. But I'm here to tell you that, as dried things usually go, those heads of garlic were once full of life and moisture, only freshly dug out from the g

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
05/07/2013 01:00 PM
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Roasted Mustard Mackerel with Fennel

Longtime readers may remember the post I wrote about sustainable seafood a few years ago. The issue is still very much at the forefront of my mind, I carry around the pocket seafood guide issued in French by the WWF (check this list for your local equivalent), and I generally eat little fish -- meaning both "not a lot of it" and "not very big ones". I'm not perfect, and although my conscience tel

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
05/02/2013 12:00 PM
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April Favorites

Photography by Sarah Mather of Noisette Bakehouse A few of my favorite finds and reads for April: ~ How to cook perfect Japanese rice. ~ About family-owned food businesses: Mark Russ Federman on his Russ & Daughters book. ~ Female chefs weigh in on what it's like to always get asked about being a woman. ~ Avert your eyes if foul language bothers you. Otherwise, enjoy. ~ MRIs of fruits and vegetab

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/30/2013 05:00 AM
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Paris Restaurant Picks: Bones, Walaku, Jeanne B., Septime @ Wanderlust

Eel / Trout / Beet / Horseradish @ Bones Dispatches from my favorite Paris restaurants for April. BONES My top pick this month! Bones is a bare-bones (ha!) bistro that operates half as a wine bar, with many natural wine choices by the glass and lots of sharable nibbles, and half as a gastronomic restaurant, showcasing Aussie chef James Henry's inspired cuisine. The single tasting menu is composed

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/23/2013 12:00 PM
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Parents Who Cook: Tamami Haga

Tamami Haga, photographed by Andy Andrews. Tamami Haga is a Japanese Londoner and passionate baker who sells her handmade chocolates and pastries from a stall at Broadway Market in Hackney, East London. She also writes the lovely blog Coco & Me, which I've been following for years and years, and mixes her experiences as a stall-keepers with inspiring -- and precisely written -- recipes. I love he

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/16/2013 01:00 PM
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Fresh Ginger Cake

If pastry chef and baking expert extraordinaire David Lebovitz were to release a Greatest Hits collection, this Fresh Ginger Cake would no doubt make the cut. Come to think of it, he has and it did: the collection is a book called Ready for Dessert: My Best Recipes, and it is a must-own for every baking enthusiast. I have been friends with David for a good eight years, and I have known about thi

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/11/2013 02:00 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: Luisa Weiss

Luisa's sketch of her fridge. For this new installment of our Draw Me A Fridge series (read about it here), Alexia spoke with Luisa Weiss. Luisa Weiss blogs at The Wednesday Chef and is the author of the best-selling food memoir My Berlin Kitchen, which was published last September by Viking. She's half American, half Italian and was born in Berlin. She moved back to her birth city three years ag

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/09/2013 01:00 PM
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Roasted Savoy Cabbage

We seem to be having one of those stubborn springs that refuses to, well, spring. And after a particularly dreary winter with a record dearth of sunny days, the grower from whom I get most of my vegetables told me he's about a month and a half late with the spring crop. So, despite what the calendar says -- and despite my hunger for fresh peas -- I am choosing to respect the realities of the curr

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/04/2013 11:00 AM
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5-Ingredient Recipes: Contest Results + Masterlist!

My go-to 5-ingredient recipe: sardine and tomato spaghetti. Two weeks ago, I wrote about Jules Clancy's fantastic new book, 5 Ingredients, 10 Minutes, and offered to give away three copies as prizes in a 5-ingredient recipe contest. You collectively submitted nearly 140 five-ingredient recipes, all of which sound fantastic and provide a fascinating glimpse into your personal tastes and appetites.

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
04/01/2013 01:00 PM
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March Favorites

A few of my favorite finds and reads for March: ~ Interested in community composting in Paris? The mairie can help. ~ French stamps with illustrated idioms (more French idioms). ~ The Washington Post's food editor comes out as a vegetarian. ~ The Scared is scared, a video made according to a six-year-old storyteller's specs (warning: this will make your day). ~ Paris restaurants cooking local ing

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/26/2013 02:00 PM
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2013 Omnivore Festival: Inspiration Notes

The 2013 edition of the Omnivore Food Festival (officially called Omnivore World Tour now that it's a traveling festival) was held at Paris's Palais de la Mutualité last week. I spent two days out of time in a dark auditorium, watching chefs cook on stage and jotting down notes in a handwriting that looks considerably more pulled together, I've only recently found out, if I use felt-tip rather th

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/19/2013 02:50 PM
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5 Ingredients 10 Minutes: A Giveaway!

{See below about winning Jules Clancy's newly released book.} I've been a follower and an admirer of Jules Clancy's Stonesoup for years. Not only does she provide inspiring minimalist recipes and gorgeous, bathed-in-Australian-light pictures, but she also strives to innovate on the classic food blog format and keeps coming up with great projects and ideas, such as her virtual cookery school, her

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/12/2013 02:00 PM
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Parents Who Cook: Michael Ruhlman

James and Michael, photographed by Donna Turner Ruhlman. Parents Who Cook is a Q&A series in which I ask my guests about how their cooking has changed after kids entered the picture, and pick their brains on their best strategies to cook with little ones underfoot. Michael Ruhlman is an American writer who specializes in understanding the professional chef's craft, and making that expertise acces

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/07/2013 11:20 AM
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Instant Banana Sorbet (No Ice Cream Machine Needed)

I've written about Braden Perkins before as the co-creator of the Paris supper club Hidden Kitchen. He and his partner Laura Adrian closed HK a year and a half ago, and moved on to open an official restaurant they named Verjus. Braden and I have now been friends for six years, and this has put me in the enviable position of tasting his food and cooking at his side on quite a few occasions. I neve

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/04/2013 02:00 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: Alexandre Cammas

Photography by Dustin Aksland. For this new installment of our Draw Me A Fridge series (read about it here), Alexia spoke with Alexandre Cammas. (Interview conducted in French and translated by us.) Food writer Alexandre Cammas is the creator of Le Fooding, a guide that helps you find the latest restaurants to get a great meal anywhere in France, and also organizes events in France and beyond. Th

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
03/01/2013 04:45 AM
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February Favorites

"Baguette table" by Studio Rygalik, photography by Nick Albert. A few of my favorite finds and reads for February: ~ Can you eat well and vegetarian? asks Lucile Escourrou in Le Figaro Madame (in French). ~ Pulled sugar? No, frost flowers! ~ The Dijon library has a digitized collection of 9000+ menus dating back to 1810. ~ How to ask for help (and get an answer). ~ An example of the weekly menus

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
02/26/2013 02:00 PM
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Bean-to-Bar Chocolate in Paris

Mendiant chocolate bar with candied pistachios (Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse). When I get into the details of the chocolate craft with people who may not have given it much thought before, one thing that always disillusions them is this: the overwhelming majority of chocolate artisans don't actually make their own chocolate. Indeed, making chocolate from scratch is an elaborate process that involves

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
02/21/2013 04:30 AM
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A Mobile-Friendly C&Z (cnz.to)

I am pleased to announce that I have (finally! in 2013!) created a mobile-friendly version of Chocolate & Zucchini. This new version is optimized for small screens: it makes it comfortable to read new posts on the go using your smart phone, and allows easy access to recipes when you're at the store or in the kitchen, searching for them by keyword, or browsing through them by dish type or ingredie

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
02/19/2013 02:00 PM
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Winter Vegetable Curry

Do you want to hear one of the least publicized benefits of working from home? You get sick less often. Not only can you choose to stay in when it's cold and drizzly and icky outside (pyjamas optional), but you also spend less time in crowded public transportation, shake fewer hands and kiss fewer cheeks (in French office environments, it is common to kiss your close colleagues hello when you com

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
02/12/2013 12:00 PM
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Parents who Cook: Diana Abu-Jaber

Gracie and Diana. Diana Abu-Jaber is an Iraqi-American writer who has authored four novels -- the latest is Birds of Paradise -- and a memoir titled The Language of Baklava, in which she explores the story of her family through the foods of her childhood. She has a marvelous way with words and a real gift for bringing characters to life, and the cooking and baking scenes in her books reveal a tru

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
02/06/2013 11:20 AM
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Cumin Chickpea Crêpes

I love legumes of all shapes, colors, and sizes, but if I had to play favorites, it is the chickpea I would single out as the cutest (right?) and the most incredibly versatile. I love it in my vegetables, in my salads, and in my soups, in my humus and in my baked falafel (I'll be sharing a recipe soon), in my Nice-style socca and in my socca tarts (recipe in my upcoming cookbook!). But my latest,

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/31/2013 01:36 PM
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January Favorites

Honey jars from Russia, featured on Buzzfeed via Lovely Package. A few of my favorite finds and reads for January: ~ What's on the menu? The New York Public Library's collection of digitized restaurant menus. ~ Some of the coolest food packaging designs of 2012. ~ The unpalatable truth about quinoa, and Tom Philpott's follow-up post. ~ 50 life hacks to simplify your world. ~ Why do health article

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/29/2013 11:00 AM
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Garlic: To Press Or Not To Press (+ a Giveaway!)

{See below about winning the garlic press to end all garlic presses.} Over the years, I've gone back and forth on this burning issue: is it a good idea to press garlic? The question sparks surprisingly violent debates, and often there's an undercurrent of judgment ("real cooks just chop") that I find out of place in any cooking discussion: there's no single right way of doing anything, just diffe

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/25/2013 09:00 AM
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[Edible Idiom] Cheveux poivre et sel

Illustration by MelinArt. This is part of a series on French idiomatic expressions that relate to food. Browse the list of idioms featured so far. This week's expression is, "Cheveux poivre et sel." Literally translated as, "pepper and salt hair," it is used to describe graying hair. It is also -- though less often -- used to describe someone's beard (barbe) or sideburns (favoris). Example: "C'ét

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/22/2013 12:00 PM
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Smoked Herring and Potato Salad

Harengs pommes à l'huile -- literally, herring and potatoes with oil -- is a great classic among French hors-d'oeuvres, one that you'll still find on brasserie and traditional (or neo-traditional) bistro menus. {I'll take this opportunity to mention this formidable project from the New York Public Library Labs: What's on the menu? is a digitized collection of restaurant menus dating back to the 1

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/15/2013 12:00 PM
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Parents Who Cook: Aran Goyoaga

Aran with Jon and Miren, photographed by Marcus Nilsson. Aran Goyoaga is the talented baker, stylist, photographer, and writer behind the gorgeous blog Cannelle & Vanille. She was born and raised in the Spanish Basque country, and now lives in Florida with her husband and two children. She and I have been in touch for years, and I was delighted to finally meet her in person over lunch when she c

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/08/2013 12:00 PM
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Roasted Onions

Peeling onions is one of my least favorite cooking tasks. The stubborn papery skin that refuses to come away smoothly, the pesky little flakes that get stuck under your fingernails and on the cutting board, not to mention the occasional outer layer that's part flesh part skin (what to do with those?), all conspire to vex me. Yet I adore onions and the pungent or sweet things they do, so I put my

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
01/01/2013 12:00 PM
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Best of 2012

Happy New Year! Here's to 2013 and the glorious meals, peals of laughter, new friends, and unforgettable adventures I hope it has in store for you. Before we remove the protective film from this brand new year, I'd like to take a moment to look back on some of the best things 2012 brought. The two biggest, happiest events for me have been (1) the birth of my baby boy in the spring -- Milan is now

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
12/18/2012 11:00 AM
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Mochi Truffles

This is a good time of year to reflect upon one's blessings, and among the very many things I feel grateful for is the way this blog connects me with remarkable people whose path I might never have crossed otherwise. Case in point: Colins Kawai, the marketing director of the University of Hawaii Press, but also an artisan chocolatier and the founder of Choco Le'a ("chocolate pleasures"), a small

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
12/12/2012 11:00 AM
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Parents Who Cook: Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs

Amanda and Addie, photographed by Sarah Shatz. Parents Who Cook is a Q&A series in which I ask my guests about cooking with little ones underfoot. If you think of people you'd like to see interviewed as part of this series -- especially fathers! -- your suggestions are welcome. I have long admired Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs for founding the Food52 website, and developing it with such savvy

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
12/07/2012 04:00 AM
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[Edible Idiom] Coeur d'artichaut

Illustration by MelinArt. This is part of a series on French idiomatic expressions that relate to food. Browse the list of idioms featured so far. This week's expression is, "Cœur d'artichaut." Literally translated as, "artichoke heart," it is used to describe someone who falls in love easily and frequently, possibly with several people at the same time -- or at least in rapid succession. It

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
12/04/2012 12:00 PM
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Banana Coconut Bread (Vegan)

Surprise, surprise, it turns out that having a baby gets in the way of one's cooking ambitions a little bit. On weeknights, the time that I used to devote to making dinner is now all about my son -- the playing, the feeding, the pyjama-ing, the cuddling, the singing -- and the few moments that I do spend in the kitchen I make the absolute most of, with quick recipes that require the bare minimum

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
11/27/2012 12:00 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: Dan Barber

For this new installment of our Draw Me A Fridge series (read about it here), we spoke with Dan Barber. Dan Barber is the chef behind one of my all-time favorite restaurants, Blue Hill, in NYC's Greenwich Village, and a farm-restaurant upstate, Blue Hill at Stone Barns, to which I've been longing to go for years. He is one of the most prominent chefs in the US, he's an active participant in the d

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
11/14/2012 09:20 AM
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50 Things To Do With Kale

Thanks to the zeitgeist and some serious lobbying from such lovely people as Kristen Beddard of The Kale Project, kale is becoming more readily available to Parisian cooks. I myself order it from a grower based in the Somme through my local Ruche qui dit oui! outpost*: it's the curly kale variety, which he poetically calls chou plume (feather cabbage). Last time I had the opportunity to cook with

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11/06/2012 12:46 PM
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Savory Granola

Silencio is the name of a membership club that opened a little over a year ago in Paris, with creative help from David Lynch. It's built way underground, and the ambiance is quite eerie, with dim lighting and a Lynch-designed decor that's all smoked mirrors and faded gold*. Access is reserved to members until midnight, when the place turns into a more classic nightclub, and during this first half

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10/25/2012 01:59 PM
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Three Very Good Things: Honey Pistachio, Farmhouse Bread, and Single-Cow Butter

{This is part of a series in which I share three delicious things recently tasted and enjoyed. Please feel free to share your 3VGT list in the comments below, or on your own blog!} My latest "three very good things" are as follows: ~ Pistachio honey from Sicily Maxence and I recently chanced upon a gelateria* in Paris' seventh arrondissement. It was pouring rain, but that didn't lessen the pu

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/25/2012 01:00 PM
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Three Very Good Things: Honey Pistachio, Farmhouse Bread, and Single-Cow Butter

{This is part of a series in which I share three delicious things recently tasted and enjoyed. Please feel free to share your 3VGT list in the comments below, or on your own blog!} My latest "three very good things" are as follows: ~ Pistachio honey from Sicily Maxence and I recently chanced upon a gelateria* in Paris' seventh arrondissement. It was pouring rain, but that didn't lessen the pull o

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/23/2012 01:00 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: Clea

Illustration by Olivier Valentin. Click to enlarge. For this new installment of our Draw Me A Fridge series (read about it here), Alexia spoke with food writer Claire Chapoutot. Claire Chapoutot is better known as Clea, of Clea Cuisine-fame, a food blog in which she's been presenting her mostly vegetarian recipes (she describes herself as a flexitarian) since 2005. Claire has two new cookbooks ou

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/23/2012 12:58 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: Clea

Illustration by Olivier Valentin. Click to enlarge. For this new installment of our Draw Me A Fridge series (read about it here), Alexia spoke with food writer Claire Chapoutot. Claire Chapoutot is better known as Clea, of Clea Cuisine-fame, a food blog in which she's been presenting her mostly vegetarian recipes (she describes herself as a flexitarian) since 2005. Claire has two new cookbooks

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/18/2012 02:05 PM
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An Everlasting Meal: The Onion Tale

It's not often that I am as charmed and captivated by a book as I was by Tamar Adler's Everlasting Meal. Her discourse on "economy and grace" in the kitchen is all about making the most ingenious use of the ingredients you buy, and giving new life to your scraps and leftovers -- an approach that resonated with me deeply for it is exactly the way I aspire to cook. Her beautiful, haunting voice,

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/18/2012 01:00 PM
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An Everlasting Meal: The Onion Tale

It's not often that I am as charmed and captivated by a book as I was by Tamar Adler's Everlasting Meal. Her discourse on "economy and grace" in the kitchen is all about making the most ingenious use of the ingredients you buy, and giving new life to your scraps and leftovers -- an approach that resonated with me deeply for it is exactly the way I aspire to cook. Her beautiful, haunting voice, he

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/16/2012 01:19 PM
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Draw Me A Fridge: A New Interview Series

With the help of (and based on an idea by) my friend Alexia Colson-Duparchy, I am pleased to launch a new series on Chocolate & Zucchini titled Draw Me A Fridge, in which she will be grilling personalities from the food world and beyond about what's in their fridge. Those who feel inspired will be providing a doodle to illustrate it. But first, meet Alexia Colson-Duparchy! Raised on quinoa and

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/16/2012 01:19 PM
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Desert Island Dishes (Contest Results)

Many thanks to those of you who participated in the Desert Island Dishes contest! It was a treat to read through your entries. It was hard to pick just three, but it had to be done, and Thomas Blythe and I narrowed it down to the following, which showed inventiveness and common sense, and just plain made us hungry. Their authors will receive a Desert Island Dishes cookbook and a Maldon seasonin

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/16/2012 01:00 PM
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Desert Island Dishes (Contest Results)

Many thanks to those of you who participated in the Desert Island Dishes contest! It was a treat to read through your entries. It was hard to pick just three, but it had to be done, and Thomas Blythe and I narrowed it down to the following, which showed inventiveness and common sense, and just plain made us hungry. Their authors will receive a Desert Island Dishes cookbook and a Maldon seasoning

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/10/2012 02:21 PM
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Vegan Lemon Squares

Silken tofu has always stumped me. Regular, firm tofu, I know what to do with -- most often I pat it dry, cube it, and sauté it until golden brown and crisp, to be served over puréed, roasted, or stir-fried vegetables. But silken tofu, with its strange, curd-like texture and the whey that pools at the bottom of the tub (is it part of the tofu? should I use it? not use it?), has always felt lik

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/10/2012 01:00 PM
4 views

Vegan Lemon Squares

Silken tofu has always stumped me. Regular, firm tofu, I know what to do with -- most often I pat it dry, cube it, and sauté it until golden brown and crisp, to be served over puréed, roasted, or stir-fried vegetables. But silken tofu, with its strange, curd-like texture and the whey that pools at the bottom of the tub (is it part of the tofu? should I use it? not use it?), has always felt like a

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/04/2012 01:00 PM
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[Edible Idiom] Papa gâteau

Illustration by MelinArt. This is part of a series on French idiomatic expressions that relate to food. Browse the list of idioms featured so far. This week's expression is, "Papa gâteau." Literally translated as, "cake daddy," it is used to qualify a doting father, one who's affectionate and good-natured, and possibly one who allows his children to wrap him around their little finger every once

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/04/2012 12:19 PM
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[Edible Idiom] Papa gâteau

Illustration by MelinArt. This is part of a series on French idiomatic expressions that relate to food. Browse the list of idioms featured so far. This week's expression is, "Papa gâteau." Literally translated as, "cake daddy," it is used to qualify a doting father, one who's affectionate and good-natured, and possibly one who allows his children to wrap him around their little finger every o

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Chocolate & Zucchini Chocolate & Zucchini
10/03/2012 06:00 AM
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Desert Island Dishes: A Contest

You've likely heard of Maldon sea salt, an English salt that comes in large, pyramid-shaped, flaky crystals, a format that makes them both very pretty, and easy to pinch and crush and sprinkle. The Maldon Salt Company is a fourth-generation family business that's celebrating its 130th anniversary this year, and they've invited me to participate in the Desert Island Dishes campaign* they've launch

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